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White gold vs Platinum
 
What are the advantages of white gold versus platinum?
Only one - the price.
Identical item in platinum cost 3 to 4 times more than the 18 kt white gold one.
This is why:
The 18 kt. white gold alloys are about 2.5 times cheaper than the platinum standard 95% alloy. And this is just the start. Because of the greater density of platinum, equivalent volume item will be 30% heavier. At this point, without any labor involved the ratio to our gold price is X2.5+30%. Because of the very high melting point and extreme susceptibility to contamination all the tools and consumables involved in platinum manufacturing process are very expensive.
The gas used for melting is hydrogen; everything that touches hot platinum must be carbon and silica free. The metal must be mechanically cleaned or pickled before every hot operation. Platinum does not polish easy. It takes 4 different grades of sandpaper and 4 grades of special polishing compounds to achieve good finish. This extensive manipulation leads to greater manufacturing lost of metal
In short - the platinum manufacturing process is much more time consuming and expensive.
Now, about the disadvantages of the white gold.
To start with, all commercial items in white gold alloys are rhodium plated,
meaning that the color that you see is not the color of the white gold but rather the color of a very thin leer of rhodium on the surface. The rhodium plating eventually wears off exposing different yellowish color of metal underneath. The item then must be taken to a jeweler, to be polished and re plated.
Adding 16 to 18 % of palladium in the alloy makes the 18kt gold alloy a bit whiter but it is still not near the platinum color, besides the high palladium alloys are very soft and not suitable for delicate pieces. The mechanical properties of platinum allow very light work without compromising the strength and the security of the setting. This makes platinum the only precious metal suitable for certain designs.
I have mentioned that the platinum is difficult to polish. Well, it is also difficult to scratch and wear off. After years of wearing, platinum retains the crisp look of the original finish. Of course every piece of jewelry will eventually need some refreshing. Even diamond gets scratches if improperly handled. My point is that comparing to gold, in mechanical properties, platinum is far, far ahead….on the horizon.
Platinum is the perfect metal for stone setting of any type. It is very strong, yet it does not spring back when displaced. This is very important quality, when it comes to expensive stones in delicate settings.
Platinum is a beautiful rare metal. It is a solid statement even on its own.
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Your host Vasco Kirov
Award winning jewelry designer
and master goldsmith
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