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Diamond Engagement Rings Antique Style - New Look at Some Old Favorites

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Few recent requests about antique looking modern engagement ring prompted me to write this article and try to determine the components comprising this updated antique style and where they came from.  I am referring to antique flair diamond rings rather than real antique pieces and to differentiate the two in this article, I will address those Updated antiques. The antique components in most of the updated antique pieces came from one or more of the following three style eras: Victorian (1837- 1901), Edwardian (1901-1918) and Art Deco (1920-1930). These three style periods overlap with other prominent style movements from these epochs.

Victorian Style is known by the introduction of many cultures and cultural styles identified trough this period: Neo-Etruscan, Neo-Assyrian, Neo-Indian etc. The elements defining the Victorian style in jewelry are symmetrical floral elements, often borrowed straight from the nature, insects with dragonfly being the preferred, birds and snakes. These designs are frequently spiced up by elements from the non European cultures noted above. There is broad use of colors in the shape of gemstones or/and enamel.  The elements used in contemporary ring designs are mostly engraved floral accents placed symmetrically on both sides and often close to the central gem. Victorian rings are usually not broad and have specific lacy appearance.

Edwardian style overlaps with the proverbial Art Nouveau style. This is the era of industrialization ending with World War I. Although still in use, the organic components in Edwardian jewelry are not always symmetrical and are well stylized, meaning the organic element is interpreted by the designer and often used in conjunction with abstract forms. The newly developed diamond cut styles encourage the use of pave jeweled elements. There are plenty of these elements used in updated antique pieces. The pave jeweled shanks with refined floral ingredients are taken up from this era. Millegrained edges within the pave are common, but this technique is fully engaged in Art Deco Jewelry. Millegrain edging or finish is an ancient technique widely used today to produce antique look on a jewelry piece. It is achieved by running a small patterned steel wheel over the pre cut edges of the design, resulting in imprinted row of minute beads on the soft precious metal. Millegrain edging broadcasts elaborate and sophisticated appearance and complicated detail.

Art Deco is a short but spectacular style and is still widely in use in modern jewelry pieces. This style is defined by geometric forms, architectural multilevel structure and fine shadow lines. Millegrain edging is employed in almost every Art Deco inspired piece.  It is also worth noting the confined use of color as well as the Neo Egyptian style revival trough this era. Black and white are favorite colors for Art Deco Jewelry with onyx, diamonds and platinum as preferred media. While there is use of some components from the previous two styles in updated antique rings, Art Deco is often applied on its own without any modern interference.  My personal  view is that Art deco is the foremost style for emerald cut diamond engagement ring.




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